Showing posts with label aguerd oudad road. Show all posts
Showing posts with label aguerd oudad road. Show all posts

17_Ibrahim Sector

Left side (east)

_1 Di tu di tu 7b ***
Liebacking and powerful finish on solid crimps. [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Cams & quickdraws
_2 Guajamente 6b+ *
Interesting crack with a terrorific tufa half the way up, be delicate! [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Cams
_3 Kilin 6b+
Wide and tetric crack on the right side of the crag, best choice for warming up. [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Cams

Right side (north-east)

_4 Por Alí 7a+ *
Chimney start and thin hands-to-fingers crack once you move on to the north side. [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Cams
_5 Por Alá 7b *
Powerful moves on spiky crimps, harder now that the start hold broke. [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Quickdraws

18_Imyane

_1 El Hachame 6a *
Short hands and finger crack on an attractive varnished dihedral. [Palan Martín on solo, 2007] Cams

19_Black Wall's Valley

_1 Unnamed 5+
Big hands-to fist splitter crack on a varnished and small wall. [?] Cams
_2 Unnamed 5+
Short hand crack located 50 meters right of the preavious route. [?] Cams
_3 Luces del desierto 6b

20_Black Wall

South-east

_1 Luces del desierto 6b
Short hands-to-fingers crack on south-east face of the cliff. [Palan Martín, 2003] Cams














North to north-west

_1 Luces del desierto 6b
_2 Unnamed 5
The easiest way to get on top of the block, the belay may need some cordelettes. [?]
_3 Unnamed 5
Starts just round the corner with some easy stuff, then follows the most lefted bolted line. Someone stole the anchors but you can still make a belay with some large cams on top. [?] Cams & quickdraws
_4 Unnamed 5 *
Crack start and nice moves on the upper half. Someone stole the anchors but you can still make a belay with some large cams on top. [?] Cams & quickdraws
_5 Unnamed 6a ***
The most beautiful line of the wall. Good holds and crimps starting at the lowest point of the slab. Someone stole the anchors but you can still make a belay with some large cams on top. [?] Quickdraws
_6 Unnamed 5+
Hands and fist crack, moves left (one bolt) before the bushes. Someone stole the anchors but you can still make a belay with some large cams on top. [?] Cams, medium sizes repeated, & quickdraws
_7 Unnamed 6a+ *
Good route but not so repeated as #45. Some run outs and some dirt, but still nice enough, with a crux on the third bolt. Someone stole the anchors but you can still make a belay with some large cams on top. [?] Quickdraws
_8 Unnamed 5
Links some easy cracks on perhaps too loose and dirty rock. Two anchors on top. [?] Cams
_9 Unnamed 6a
Starts on a crack between two argan trees, then follows the most lefted bolts to the anchors. [?] Cams & quickdraws
_10 Unnamed 6a *
Starts on a crack behind the right argan tree, then through a nice bolted slab. [?] Cams & quickdraws
_11 Unnamed 6b+ *
The hardest one on the wall, delicate and crimpy start, then easy to the anchors. [?] Quickdraws
_12 Unnamed 5
Short route on the north-west face, liebacking (one bolt) and hands crack, just one anchor (cordelettes). [?] Cams & quickdraws

21_Transaharania

_1 Transaharania 6c *
Located on an isolated rock faced to the Black Wall with a cattle shelter underneath. Overhanging start and beautiful hands crack finishing on sprint liebacking to the anchor. [Palan Martín, 2003] Cams

22_Lovers' Crack

_1 Unnamed
A piton gives evidence of this old aid route with no anchors. Maybe if there were some bolts... [?]
_2 Lovers' Crack 7c+/8a ***
Some say 8a, others 7c+... but the beauty of this pin-protected line is beyond all doubt. Powerful moves to get over the roof (crux), easier end if you move to the right crack instead of following the blind left crack. [?] Quickdraws and cams to rappel down
_3 Unnamed ?
Hands-to-wide crack for the most righted route on the crag. [?] Medium and large cams

23_Elephant Rock

North

_1 Cuidao con el meao 6a+ *
Nice and shaded slab on solid rock, use a long sling to avoid rope drag when lowering. [Antoine Olabarría, Eduardo Muntané, Beatriz Martín, Manuel Caballero & Eva Viviente, 2004] Quickdraws
_2 ¿De qué vas, Nicolás? 6a *
The middle one, shares both the good and the bad things with the preavious route. [Antoine Olabarría, Eduardo Muntané, Beatriz Martín, Manuel Caballero & Eva Viviente, 2004] Quickdraws
_3 Hendrix 6a
Easy crack with some slab moves to gain the anchors. [Antoine Olabarría, Eduardo Muntané, Beatriz Martín, Manuel Caballero & Eva Viviente, 2004] Cams and quickdraws






West

No routes yet on these almost 50 meter walls, maybe because of the rock quality, loose and sandy, but still good slabs can be opened.










South

_4 Unnamed ?
Starts at the dihedral, moving right at the wide crack that crosses the roof. Just one bolt on top. [?] Large cams









East

_5 Unnamed ? *
Elegant hand-to-fist crack on a beatiful varnished wall, worth the hike. The grade must be between french 5th grade and 6b. Just one bolt on top. [?] Cams

24_Heyt Mharres

_1 Rascayú 6c+
Follows the evident diagonal crack located at the middle of the crag. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan luis Monge, 1996] Cams