Showing posts with label tazka road. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tazka road. Show all posts

9_Tazka' First Dome

One or two pitches routes can still be opened on this virgin dome located at the far right end of Tazka's Valley...

10_Tazka's Second Dome

No routes yet on this sunny slab...

11_Tazka's Palm Grove

_1 Unnamed 6b
Short route on the left side of the wall, starts with vertical moves and soon becomes an easier slab. [?] Quickdraws
_2 Unnamed 6b+
Can be done in one or two pitches, crimpy start that eases once you are in the upper slab. [?] Quickdraws

12_Prisa Mata

_1 Prisa mata 7b+ *
Incredible splitter on a hanging northwest facing rock. Hands and fist crack on an overhanging wall, be ready for a tough fight. [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Cams, repeat hand and fist sizes

13_Tocho de Tazka

_1 Fisura 6a
Unattractive crack on the left side of the east face. [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Cams
_2 El balcón de Tazka 7b+ ***
Even though the real 'Tazka's balcony' is a flat rock located 200 meters east, the route is really worth the hike. The first moves are a bit sandy but once you are on the upper wall climbing gets terrific. One of the best! [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Quickdraws
_3 El tocho 8a+/b ***
Overhanging hard moves that will pump your forearms very quickly, the rock is not always the best but the route is tremendous and, best of all, north faced. [Daniel Andrada, Pedro Pons, Ruth Planells & Nuria Martí, 1999] Quickdraws

14_Tocho el Regalito

_1 La prisa mata 7b
Sandy start, reachy move on the crux and good crimps and holds to reach the anchors. [Daniel Andrada, Pedro Pons, Ruth Planells & Nuria Martí, 1999] Quickdraws
_2 El regalito 7c/+ *
Long move on loose crimps (crux) and beautiful liebacking on a good crack, shame is so dirty. [Daniel Andrada, Pedro Pons, Ruth Planells & Nuria Martí, 1999] Quickdraws
_3 La tranquilidad me machaca 8b *
Two chipped holds to start and then powerful moves on a stethic line, a bit dirty too. [Daniel Andrada, Pedro Pons, Ruth Planells & Nuria Martí, 1999] Quickdraws

15_Tocho el Regalito's Slab

_1 Unnamed 7b+
Facing Tocho el Regalito, a highball for a few, a top rope for most... Tough moves to get on to the slab (crux), easier the upper you get but watch out if going ropeless, you'll feel better if you have some pads down. [?]

16_Flor de luna

_1 Flor de luna 7a+ ***
The most perfect crack in Tafraout! Big fists and pumpy liebacking on an astonishing rigth-facing dihedral visible from the car. Not to be missed! [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Camalots 3, 4 (4) and 4.5